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Modifying GT2600 Trap

The GT 2600 by Lees Trap Works is an excellent Trap for catching Richardson’s Ground Squirrels. It works without requiring bait, it kills the ground squirrel quickly, and it is tall enough be seen above the grass. Unfortunately, whenever I seem to use it, I am always on the wrong side of the trap when I check it. Thus I can’t check the trap from a distance because the solid side the trap prevents me seeing whether the guillotine bar has moved or not. (Note the guillotine bar does NOT cut the rodent’s head off).GT 2600

I clearly needed a more efficient way to check traps. A way that would allow me to see if the trap had fired from either side. I decided to cut a hole in the top. The hole would appear once the bar fired as pictured in the first and third trap (from left to right). Sure it is a modification to the trap that costs time. But the savings would more than make up for it in due time. I also suggest that you have a piece of sandpaper or grinder to file down the sharp edge left after cutting the hole. You don’t want to cut your fingers when carrying the trap by the hole.

The photo shows the trap as purchased (left to right number 2 and 4) and the modified trap (left to right 1 and 3).

 

Stephen M. Vantassel, CWCP, is the owner of Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. He helps people restore their balance with nature through publishing, training, consulting, and the internet. He has published numerous articles in trade and academic publications along with several books (http://kingsdivinity.academia.edu/StephenMVantassel). He is a sought after speaker and trainer. Copyright All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

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Fenn Trap & Prairie Dogs

The Fenn Trap is a British trap that is similar in appearance to the foothold but unlike the foothold is designed to kill the captured animal. In this latter way, the Fenn Trap is like a conibear-style trap. The British Rat Trap company sells traps here in the US. Of course their main market is ordinary rodents like rats. But I wondered if the trap would fit inside a prairie dog burrow.  It does.Fenn Trap

The trap pictured is the small Fenn Trap not the large version. One advantage of using traps for prairie dogs is that there are no toxicants that could potentially harm others either by primary or secondary poisoning. If you decide to use traps like the Fenn Trap for prairie dogs then be sure they are anchored well. If you don’t predators like the coyote will appreciate the free meal and while they are at it, they will take the trap too.

I haven’t tried the trap in the field yet, but hope to in 2018. Stay tuned.

Stephen M. Vantassel, CWCP, is the owner of Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. He helps people restore their balance with nature through publishing, training, consulting, and the internet. He has published numerous articles in trade and academic publications along with several books (http://kingsdivinity.academia.edu/StephenMVantassel). He is a sought after speaker and trainer. Copyright All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

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RBG Traps and Columbian Ground Squirrels

Using body-gripping traps to control wildlife is one of the tried and true techniques for wildlife control operators (WCOs). Being able to set a trap over the burrow and let the animal pass through and get caught dramatically increases efficiency of the trapping. In addition, no bait is required so you save money and reduce the potential for catching non-target animals.

I recently spent some time with a WCO who does a fair amount of trapping of Columbian ground squirrels. His clients don’t want to use toxicants and he is happy to provide the service. He showed me that he likes to use the RBG Trap. RBG stands for Round Body-grip.

RBG trap set over the entrance of a Columbian ground squirrel.
RBG Trap set over the burrow entrance of a Columbian ground squirrel.

He tells me that the benefit of the RBG trap is that it fits right into the hole (he uses the 2.5 inch and 3.5 inch diameter traps). He wedges RBG traps in place and thus doesn’t need to use a stabilizer stick to hold the trap in place. Plus the ground squirrel can’t get around the trap. It has to go through. He finishes the set with a 24 inch stake.

In wildlife control simple is the best. Perhaps you want to try this to control small ground squirrels in your neck of the woods.

Stephen M. Vantassel

 

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Winter Trapping Tips

Winter Trapping Tips

Each season brings its own challenges to the WCO and winter is no different. Here are a few tips to maximize your results when Mother Nature tries to slow you down.
1. Choose the right glue board. I am not a big fan of glue boards but sometimes they are needed. In cold weather, choose the freezer-style glue boards as they stay tacky even down to freezing temperatures.

Board used to protect a cage trap from snow. Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.
Board used to protect a cage trap from snow. Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.

2. Protect your cage traps from snow. Snow can conceal your bait and bury your traps making it ineffective. Worse yet, you have to dig out your traps later. Protect your traps in advance by setting them under an evergreen tree, under an eave, on the lee side of a tree or building, or place a sheet of plywood on top.
3. Improve your baiting technique. Bait won’t volatize as easily in cold weather so don’t think that your bait will have the same draw as it does in the summer. Thus you need to pay more attention to locating your traps in the best location. But since that may not be possible (see point 2) think about using trailing lures to help guide the animal to the trap.

About the Author

Stephen M. Vantassel is a Certified Wildlife Control Operator (CWCP®) who helps individuals, businesses, and agencies resolve wildlife damage issues through training, writing, expert witness, and research. He has written the Wildlife Damage Inspection Handbook, 3rd edition. Reach him at wildlifecontrolconsultant at gmail dot com.

Copyright

All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

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Anchoring Encapsulated-Foot Traps

Split ring (left) and quick link (right). Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.
Split ring (left) and quick link (right). Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.

Anchoring Encapsulated-foot Traps

In my previous post, I defined what encapsulated-foot traps were, how they were commonly called dog-proof traps, and how they were an important tool in wildlife damage management. This week, I wanted to explain how to anchor them.

Anchoring or staking traps is critical because failure to secure traps properly will result in lost animals as well as the lost traps. Here is an easy way to anchor your traps. Cut 6 foot lengths of 7×7, 3/32 aircraft cable. Use aluminum double ferrules to make loops at each end. Loops should be small enough to be used with ½-inch re-bar stakes without sliding over the top of the stake. If you follow these directions, the loops will be small enough to slide through the swivel attached to the chain of your encapsulated-foot traps. The advantage of the cable is that you can use them to secure traps to trees, which if you are trapping for raccoons, will always be close at hand.

To secure the cable, I suggest using split rings. Split rings are similar to rings for your keys except the split in the wrapping allows you to attach cables to them easier. Simply insert the loop into the split side and slide it to one end and then push it around the loop so it locks into the ring. It’s quick easy and raccoons won’t undue them. You may be wondering why don’t I recommend using quick links to secure the cable? I don’t because raccoons can unscrew the links. While some trappers have not had this problem, I know of a trapper that has. If you do decide to use quick links, use a wrench to ensure the screw is tight. For myself, I don’t want to wonder, did I tighten that screw enough? I think good trapping is simplified trapping because the fewer the elements the less chances you have to make a mistake.

About the Author

Stephen M. Vantassel is a certified wildlife control operator who helps individuals, businesses, and agencies resolve wildlife damage issues through training, writing, expert witness, and research. His latest books are the Wildlife Damage Inspection Handbook, 3rd edition and The Practical Guide to the Control of Feral Cats. He can be contacted at wildlifecontrolconsultant at gmail dot com. If you would like your publication, video, or product reviewed, please contact the author at the e-mail above.

Copyright

All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.