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10 Facts about Raccoon Roundworm

Raccoon roundworm, Baylisascaris procyonis, is a nematode that lives in the intestines of many raccoons. There the worms shed eggs that exit the raccoons through the feces. Since raccoons tend to defecate in the same locations, known as toilettes, these sites pose risks to those who encounter the contaminated soils. What follows is 10 facts about raccoon roundworm.

Baylisascaris larvae emerging from an egg: U.S. Govt. Wikimedia.
Baylisascaris larvae emerging from an egg: U.S. Govt. Wikimedia.
  1. A raccoon can have 20,000 to 26,000 of roundworm eggs in a gram of feces.
  2. Raccoons can become infected by ingesting infective eggs or by eating animals already infected with the worms.
  3. Children are the most likely to be infected because they are more likely to play in contaminated areas and put their dirty hands in their mouth.
  4. The roundworm has been found to infect more than 100 species of animals, including dogs.
  5. Raccoon roundworm can damage organs, eyes, and cause encephalitis (i.e. inflammation of the brain).
  6. Roundworm eggs can survive for years in moist conditions, such as shaded soils.
  7. Roundworm eggs can be killed by exposure to prolonged sunlight, dry conditions, or temperatures above 144 degrees F.
  8. There are no products registered for the disinfecting roundworm eggs on surfaces.
  9. When surveys have been done, raccoon roundworm has been found throughout the United States, with only one exception.
  10. Signs of infection in animals include, lethargy, ataxia, circling, loss of fear of humans, slow arching of head and neck, slow movements, leaning, etc.

Sources:

Kazacos, Kevin R. 2001. Baylisascaris procyonis and related species. Parasitic Diseases of Wild Animals: Endoparasites Part II. Chapter 11. pp.301-341.

Murray, William J. and Kevin R. Kazacos. 2004. Raccoon Roundworm Encephalitis. Clinical Infectious Diseases. Nov. 15. Pp. 1484-1492.

Shafir, Shira C.; Wei Wang, Frank J. Sorvillo, Matthew E. Wise, Laurel Moore, Teresa Sorvillo, and Mark L. Eberhard. 2007. Thermal Depth Point of Baylisascaris procyonis Eggs. Emerging Infectious Diseases. 13:1(Jan): 172-173.

Stephen M. Vantassel, CWCP, ACE, is the owner of Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. He helps people restore their balance with nature through publishing, training, consulting, and the internet. He has published numerous articles in trade and academic publications available at {Stephen’s Academia.edu Page} along with several books {WCC Store}). Listen to his podcast “Living the Wild Life” at {Pest Geek Podcast}. Please subscribe to {Stephen’s YouTube Channel} He is a sought after speaker and trainer. If you would like to have Stephen speak at your event or use his consultation services, send an e-mail to wildlifecontrolconsultant@gmail.com. Copyright All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

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Chimney Trap System 1

It was a beautiful Saturday Summer day in Western Massachusetts. I had lined up three chimney raccoon jobs and thankfully I was able to get my wife to come along and help. I am not very good on roofs and chimneys, let alone handling so many fireplaces in one day. Some of my colleagues talk about handling these jobs in an hour, I can only wish to be that fast. My chimney raccoon removal method at the time was Rich Daniotti’s Chimney Trap System 1. This is the trap system without the chimney brushes. You are supposed to set the trap and come back the next day. I never felt confident enough with that method, so I would just drive the female up the chimney and catch her the same day.

Chimney Trap System 1 hanging by bungee cords. Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.
Chimney Trap System 1 hanging by bungee cords. Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.

The first two jobs went okay despite being rather long. The sun was shinning and the temperature was beginning to rise. I felt good about the money I was making but I was beginning to feel rather tired. The last job of the day was two floor house in a nearby town. We didn’t start there till after 3:00 pm. Already the sweat was pouring out of my body and it was not at all comfortable. After greeting the client and checking out the fireplace, I accessed the roof and installed the chimney trap. The roof was a little more pitched than I like and the tiles were beginning to get soft. I knew I had to move quickly in order to finish the job today. With the trap installed, I began to harass the mother to get her to climb the chimney and enter the trap. She was a little stubborn at first but in a couple of minutes, I heard the pleasant sound of the metal trap door closing. I thought it was a bit strange that it sounded so loud. I am partially deaf in my left ear, but  I figured the acoustics were right. Feeling kind a proud of myself, I exit the building looking for the chimney to see my trapped raccoon. I was a bit surprised that I didn’t see the trap. I guessed that the roof line was blocking my view, so I stepped further away from the house to get a clearer ground view of the chimney. My stomach sank when I saw the top of the chimney with no raccoon and worst of all no trap. I felt even worse knowing that the chimney was surrounded by building so if my trap fell it would not fall harmlessly to the ground. I started getting worried about the cost of potential damages. By the way, did I mention that the client was a lawyer?

I swung around the building looking for my trap. I passed a corner, looked up and there was my trap and trapped raccoon hanging by the bungee cords against the chimney. On the roof below, urine and feces were sprayed. It seems that the trap wasn’t stabilized enough or she flew out of the chimney so fast that the trap lifted up dislodging it from the chimney. Feeling that she was falling, she literally messed herself she was so scared. Thankfully, the bungee cords stopped the trap from falling on the asphalt shingled roof below. The house wasn’t damaged by the impact either because the trap only hit the side of the brick chimney. Thank God, I had truly dodged a bullet on this one. The client didn’t even notice my mistake. He was just glad that the job was getting done.

About the Author

Stephen M. Vantassel is a Certified Wildlife Control Operator (CWCP®) who helps individuals, businesses, and agencies resolve wildlife damage issues through training, writing, expert witness, and research. He has written the Wildlife Damage Inspection Handbook, 3rd edition. Reach him at wildlifecontrolconsultant at gmail dot com.

Copyright

All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

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Anchoring Encapsulated-Foot Traps

Split ring (left) and quick link (right). Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.
Split ring (left) and quick link (right). Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.

Anchoring Encapsulated-foot Traps

In my previous post, I defined what encapsulated-foot traps were, how they were commonly called dog-proof traps, and how they were an important tool in wildlife damage management. This week, I wanted to explain how to anchor them.

Anchoring or staking traps is critical because failure to secure traps properly will result in lost animals as well as the lost traps. Here is an easy way to anchor your traps. Cut 6 foot lengths of 7×7, 3/32 aircraft cable. Use aluminum double ferrules to make loops at each end. Loops should be small enough to be used with ½-inch re-bar stakes without sliding over the top of the stake. If you follow these directions, the loops will be small enough to slide through the swivel attached to the chain of your encapsulated-foot traps. The advantage of the cable is that you can use them to secure traps to trees, which if you are trapping for raccoons, will always be close at hand.

To secure the cable, I suggest using split rings. Split rings are similar to rings for your keys except the split in the wrapping allows you to attach cables to them easier. Simply insert the loop into the split side and slide it to one end and then push it around the loop so it locks into the ring. It’s quick easy and raccoons won’t undue them. You may be wondering why don’t I recommend using quick links to secure the cable? I don’t because raccoons can unscrew the links. While some trappers have not had this problem, I know of a trapper that has. If you do decide to use quick links, use a wrench to ensure the screw is tight. For myself, I don’t want to wonder, did I tighten that screw enough? I think good trapping is simplified trapping because the fewer the elements the less chances you have to make a mistake.

About the Author

Stephen M. Vantassel is a certified wildlife control operator who helps individuals, businesses, and agencies resolve wildlife damage issues through training, writing, expert witness, and research. His latest books are the Wildlife Damage Inspection Handbook, 3rd edition and The Practical Guide to the Control of Feral Cats. He can be contacted at wildlifecontrolconsultant at gmail dot com. If you would like your publication, video, or product reviewed, please contact the author at the e-mail above.

Copyright

All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

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Encapsulated Foot Traps

Encapsulated Foot Traps

Encapsulated Foot Traps are a type of trap that triggers when an animal inserts its foot inside a

Encapsulated foot traps (left to right), Coon Cuffs, Lil' Grizz, and The Egg Trap. Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.
Encapsulated foot traps (left to right), Coon Cuffs, Lil’ Grizz, and The Egg Trap. Photo by Stephen M. Vantassel.

tube-like hole. The more common name for these traps is “dog-proof” traps. While these traps for the most part are dog-proof, because most dogs can’t fit their paws inside the tube, it is not the best term for referring to these traps.

Encapsulated foot traps come in a wide variety of models. I have shown 3 in the photo, but trust me there are more. While these traps are not perfect (no trap really is), encapsulated foot traps provide several advantages that should be kept in mind:

  1. Less-likely to capture non-target animals, such as dogs.
  2. Their encapsulated structure helps reduce foot damage to the animal.
  3. They have a higher capture rate for raccoons than cage or box traps.
  4. Portable and lower cost than cage or box traps.

This past trapping season, I had the opportunity to learn more about these traps. I like them, but they do have some issues that must be addressed by conscientious trappers. Stay tuned as I will cover them in future editions.

About the Author

Stephen M. Vantassel is a certified wildlife control operator who helps individuals, businesses, and agencies resolve wildlife damage issues through training, writing, expert witness, and research. His latest books are the Wildlife Damage Inspection Handbook, 3rd edition and The Practical Guide to the Control of Feral Cats. He can be contacted at wildlifecontrolconsultant at gmail dot com.

If you would like your publication, video, or product reviewed, please contact the author at the e-mail above.

Copyright

All postings are the property of Stephen M. Vantassel and Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC. Text (not images) may be reprinted in non-profit publications provided that the author and website URL is included. If images wish to be used, explicit and written permission must be obtained from Wildlife Control Consultant, LLC.

 

 

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Raccoon Roundworm

When they think of dangers associated with raccoons, most people say “rabies.” While rabies is a common infection with raccoons, there is another danger with raccoons that is less known, namely Baylisascaris procyonis or more commonly raccoon roundworm. Baylisascaris procyonis is a roundworm whose eggs are commonly found in the feces of raccoons. What makes the worm dangerous is that when ingested, it can enter a person’s blood stream and damage organs and ultimately cause death.

Female (larger) and male Ascaris worms, similar to the worm Baylisascaris procyonis. Photo: Centers for Disease Control
Female (larger) and male Ascaris worms, similar to the worm Baylisascaris procyonis. Photo: Centers for Disease Control

In light of this threat, people understandably want raccoon latrines to be removed from their homes and property. But how should this be done? Disturbing raccoon latrines can cause the eggs to become airborne and contaminate even more areas. Regrettably, the wildlife control industry doesn’t have protocols established on the proper of cleaning and removal of raccoon latrines. Stephen M. Vantassel has drafted a protocol in the hopes that it will ultimately provide some guidance and standardization in the clean up of raccoon latrines. While still a work in progress, it is a step in the right direction. You can download the publication at A Draft Proposal for An Industry Protocol for the Cleanup of Raccoon Latrines.

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